TARAZONA
Chapter 3 Paragraph 2
12 August 2017
After visiting Veruela, we move to nearby Tarazona (Turiasum). Actually, after inserting it into my itinerary in the first draft, I decided to exclude it later. By checking the chronological conditions (near the lunchtime) and the position from the monastery, I made a quick further program change. And it was not a bad idea, because the facts made me right for the sudden choice.
This city, as well as the many places we have visited, is unknown to many people, little considered in the tourist trails: there is no sea, little fun, positioned in a hot tub and with a perhaps more desolate ambient of the Syrtis Major Planum.
Still, it retains much of Hispanic history, a small burly of historical stratifications and testimonies.
Populated initially by Celts-Iberians, possessed and "renewed" by the inevitable Roman; in decay with the eruption of the Roman Empire; the important fortress under the Visigoths and the subsequent rebirth under the Muslims, it developed strongly with the establishment of Jews, Muslims and Christians: a perfect integration (and the results are seen) that does not even match today. The Aragonese Rulers did everything to ensure the equality of their people, protecting them from the constant "attacks" of the Castilian kings, who wanted to impose Christianity as the only sign of civilization. Unfortunately, Castile had become very powerful in the area and the modern Aragonese Rulers had to give up and with them disappeared the well-being and equal right of life for Jews and Muslims: we know the story. Following the purge, the city lost a lot of its inhabitants and with them the connected culture.
Fortunately, they had time to leave the mark. In particular, we find testimonies of a particular architectural style called Mudéjar, very popular in Aragon, where the last architects began to mix Islamic architecture with Romanesque and Gothic influences. The Cathedral (closed !!!!) is the highest representative of this style, with its extraordinary tower in Mudéjar brick. Begun in the 13th century, it was only completed in the last decades of the sixteenth century (they weren’t in hurry).
The old city with its most significant concentration of Mudejar architecture is found in the upper part, behind a kind of hill above Rio Queiles, a stream of water that would not even drizzle an insect, but even so it exists. The prospect from the two pedestrian bridges that cross the Rio is really impressive and admirable. Unfortunately, we visited it under the harsh and implacable light of the Iberian midday, taking away, I'm sure, that breathtaking spectacle that would appear at sunset, radiated by the sun with a warm light that would highlight the same warm color of Mudéjar bricks. The tower that dominates the city, and placed right in the highest part, belongs to Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalena, it also a mixture of styles.
Not far away we find the Episcopal Palace, imposing for the era, which was also former residence of Muslim rulers and Aragonese kings.
Coming down the city you meet the center of the Moreria, or Moorish quarter, and, in the vicinity of the descent, Juderia, or Jewish quarter.
“Calle" really typical and definitely characteristic, really nice to stroll, where in a sense you "breathe" the atmosphere of the citizens, and with a little mental effort you can imagine them walked by Moorish, Jews and Christians in their daily lives.
Inevitable the Plaza de Toros, but here it has a particular connotation.
A group of citizens, irritated by the lack of bullfighting, national sports, decided to build their homes in an octagonal shape, giving shape to the arena and ready to host bullfights. The suggestive balconies that directly overlook the Plaza de Toros and the glimpse is really snappy. (A pity for the temporary pools ready to host the summer parties).
From the Ayuntamento (Town Hall), an unusual and attractive building adorned with the work of Hercules, every August the 27th tries to get out the El Cipotegato buffoon, targeted by the people with a discharge of tomatoes: far away similar to the nostalgic battle of oranges, held at Ivrea (Battaglia delle Arance) in Italy.
We have our lunch in a nice (is told to be the “mas") restaurant where we charge the batteries, ours and cameras. Meanwhile, the sun is boiling, we see fewer people, but we must strive to get out for the next paragraph.
