There seem to be an endless number of restaurants throughout Buenos Aires. Most are obvious, some are tucked within the ubiquitous sports clubs, and some are unmarked, or even entirely hidden from view. A restaurant in this last category is called a "puerta cerrada," which translates into English as "closed door." Puerta cerradas are not technically "restaurants," as they are not licensed and operate "under the wire," so to speak. They range from tiny (i.e. a single table in someone's home, manned by one or two people) to somewhat large (with numerous tables and a staff as large as 10-12 people). Despite not being "legal," one can find some of these listed on apps like Yelp. Others are only found by word of mouth. Some are operated by a chef and his wife or partner on his/her nights off. Others operate as a business.

However, this project is not about puertas cerradas, but rather, on one particular unmarked restaurant in Palermo: El Renaciente. My wife and I were introduced to this humble restaurant nearly fifteen years ago by our friend Leo, a local architect and artist. And it became the lunch place that we frequented about once each week. From the street, a tourist might think that the building had been abandoned. But a keen observer will notice that the doors are opened from late morning until mid-afternoon. Never mind the occasional dog or pigeon that might be seen wandering in or out, a steady stream of regular customers appeared every day. And never mind that the interior is dated and not as clean as one might expect. What is important is that the food, which is typical Argentine lunch fare, is remarkably delectable and satisfying. 

El Renaciente was operated by an elderly couple and their two daughters. Unfortunately, none of them spoke a word of English, and our command of Spanish was abysmal, so we were never able to learn their story. I don't think we even learned their names. Recently, I asked our friend Leo if the restaurant had survived the COVID pandemic. He told me that the restaurant had survived, but that the parents had passed away. Fortunately, for the many regular customers who rely on El Renaciente for lunch, the sisters continue to keep the place going.

I decided to post this project in memory of the parents and a nod to the two sisters.