Each evening as the sun's last rays reflect off the boundless waters of the Ganges, hundreds of devotees and an equal number of foreign tourists gather on the Ghats of the old Banaras for evening 'Aarti'. This everyday ceremony is filled with song, prayer, ritual and a palpable sense of spirituality. The "aarti" - an ornate oil lamp, lined with dozens of flames burning- is offered to the mother of all rivers; in an orchestra like synchrony. The mornings are punctuated by the cacophony of the Siberian migratory birds which spread their wings to begin a journey spanning thousands of kilometers with the onset of winter every year.

The civilization here was established as an acknowledgement to the two primary reasons why life existed and flourished in this part of the world; the Sun God and the river Goddess has been an integral part of the Hindu religion from time immemorial. Looking at the river Ganges, it is glaring that it has been contaminated with human and toxic waste. Yet people take a dip in it and even drink the water off it. May be if you have enough faith and conviction, you can actually transcend the filth. The most frustrating part about the Ghats are the innumerable businesses which have arisen to make a profit out of the faiths of thousands of pilgrims who visit Varanasi every day. Devotees who stroll around for a spiritual experience or just for a tranquil time along the banks of the calm river will constantly be bickered by the annoying salesmen who want to sell you everything; from offerings to 'ganja'.

Caught between chaos and solace, tradition and modernity, motion and stagnation, spontaneity and eternity. Life and death. A city that will make you wonder if not wiser.