Made for hundreds of years, the Panama hat gained notoriety in the US - and around the world - at the start of the 20th-century, when President Theodore Roosevelt wore one as he inspected the progress of the Panama Canal. By the ‘40s-‘50s, the design had transformed into a style statement, thanks to Hollywood. Gregory Peck, Clark Gable, James Stewart, and then the likes of Robert Redford and Sean Connery wore Panama straw hats in renowned films or on and off set, cementing the design’s gentlemanly appeal.

Fast forward to 2018, and the Panama hat still maintains a sense of mystery, despite being one of the most iconic accessories. Two crucial facts – well-known by experts, those who work in the industry, and some fans of the design – continue to remain largely unknown. The first one is the name, which hints to Panama as a country of origin. In fact, these popular hats are Ecuadorian. More specifically, the authentic Panama straw hat and its finest examples come from the Montecristi area and the small town of Pile.

The second detail is even more captivating, because it reveals the true value of these elegant hats. To craft an authentic Panama hat, a skilled artisan needs a few months of dedicated work. The best craftspeople make only a few hats per year, and their masterpieces have the price to match. One of these beauties can cost between a few thousand dollars to over $25,000.

The art of creating an authentic Panama hat requires many years of experience and finely honed skills, making these craftspeople some of the most talented artisans in the world. Indeed, in 2012 UNESCO included the Panama hats hand weaving process on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Located in the coastal province of Manabí, Pile is a small town with a big impact. This is where the finest straw hats come to life, from the hands of skilled and hardworking craftsmen. With no phone signal and a population of only around 800 people, the town has a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. A place that some of the most skilled weavers in the world call home. Photographer Vicente Manssur went to Pile to capture these old-time artisans while they work. His beautiful series of photographs offers a glimpse into the art of crafting straw masterpieces.

All Photographs ©Vicente Manssur for Gessato