Harshi Rambhia's profile

Everyday Footwear (inspired by kolhapuri chappal)

The iconic open-toed and t-strapped slipper originated by the name of “kanwali chappal” (which means slipper with ears, referring to its side flaps), in the Kolhapur district of Maharashtra, India as early as the 13th century. They were made of vegetable tanned buffalo leather and had thick soles to endure the heat and mountain terrain of Maharashtra. The interwoven joineries added to the durability. They are embellished with intricate braids and carved/ embossed patterns. By the 18th century they gained popularity in the neighbo-ouing city of Mumbai as the “kolhapuri chappal”. Today it is known, recognised and appreciated all over the world.

The high demand for the kolhapuri chappal gave rise to a home-based cottage industry in Kolhapur and many other neighbouring villages. However, it is a declining industry today. Strict environment regulations have led to shutting down of tanneries, which generate polluting effluents. Ban on the slaughter of cow, bulls and bullocks; has led to scarcity of leather and a hike in its price. It faces tough competition from cheaper artificial leather. As a result, craftsmen have started migrating to other cities and opting for other career options.


The intent of this project is to make a pair of everyday footwear, inspired by the form of the kolhapuri chappal. The aim is to make it sustainable in terms of materials used and its life cycle, to utilise the skill set of the highly experienced craftsmen and still design taking into account the present scenario of the industry.

SWOT analysis


current trends

DESIGN CRITERIAS

- Open toed and t-strap slipper
- Everyday use
- Sustainable life cycle
- Avoid of toxic adhesives
- Flexible sole
- Cushioned

The footwear industry today heavily relies on toxic adhesives for assembly. The use of any kind of adhesive makes it impossible to separate the different materials involved in making the shoe, at the end of its life span. Hence, they can not be recycled or managed efficiently. Moreover, the toxic chemicals leach into the ground water and contaminate it when the footwear is disposed. Hence the major focus in this project has been on making an adhesive free pair of footwear.

Secondly, being designed for everyday use, it is aimed to keep the feet in good health and tackle problems such as heel pain, sweat and bad odour.

alternative materials

inspiration
mood board

COIR

This resilient material based on natural cocos fibre is curled by means of a spinning process followed by steaming. The fibres are bonded with 100% natural latex to form a sheet. Due to the natural fibre this product has excellent properties such as good ventilation, temperature and humidity control, and most importantly no harmful chemicals and no solvents are used in the process.

Rubberised coir is composed of 50% coir fibre and 50% natural latex. Addition of latex increases the life of the coir. It reduces water retention and sagging. It is an excelllent material for shoe soles because it is:
- Shock absorbent
- Anti- bacterial
- Sweat absorbent
- Takes form of the feat


materials

iterations
FINAL CONCEPT
The rubberised coir (shock absorbing and flexible) midsole provides ample cushioning unlike the hard leather of newly bought kolhapuri chappal that are often found to be uncomfortable due to heel pain.


MAKING PROCESS
prototyping (mock of the process of compressing and molding rubberised coir sheet with heat and pressure)


stitching the outer sole to the casing of the midsole
(Hand stitched with sooth thread, used in making of mojaris. It is extremely strong and resistant to wear and tear.)


attaching uppers to the footbed

final prototype
Everyday Footwear (inspired by kolhapuri chappal)
Published:

Owner

Everyday Footwear (inspired by kolhapuri chappal)

Published: