Introduction to Shoemaking, Fall 2017, Instructor: Anne-Marika Verplough Chassé
Classic White Derby
A handmade pair of shoes featuring a stacked leather heel with a cemented construction.
Prompt | Timeline: 6 Weeks
Design and create a shoe or pair of shoes primarily using leather and a cemented construction.
Process
I started by experimenting with various patterns for different shoe types before proceeding with a derby-style shoe. I created a standard from a pattern drawn on the last in order to be able to make the pattern sections for my shoes.
After cutting out the pattern pieces, I skived the necessary sections in order to prevent bulges in the final shoe. Next came sewing the lining to the upper.
After sewing all the parts together, I trimmed the excess lining, punched the lace holes, and laced the uppers to prepare for the lasting process.
I then proceeded with securing the upper to the last.
For the soling process, I placed a shank under the arch and filled the bottom with cork. I then cemented leather to the bottom of the shoe for the outsole and heel.
I finished the leather outsole and heel with a natural wax finish after glassing and sanding. For the insole, I used a thinner piece of leather and sewed around the edge as an added detail.
