La Gomera
Published in Woman's Weekly magazine 9th November 2010
Published in Woman's Weekly magazine 9th November 2010
Whistle while you walk in La Gomera
The little Island of La Gomera is one of Spain’s Canary Islands located in the Atlantic Ocean next to the popular tourist destination of Tenerife. Blessed with a year round temperate climate, this tranquil island is only four hours away from Britain yet offers a warm tonic from the gloom of winter.
We flew direct to Tenerife where we where met by our guide, Neil Flynn who drove us to the port at Los Cristianos to catch the passenger hydrofoil ferry to San Sebastion. A beautiful sunset marked the start of our 45-minute journey although the slightly choppy ride on the hydrofoil reminded me more of a North Sea crossing and we were relieved to reach the harbour in La Gomera. I wandered if Neil’s choice of catching the slower vehicle ferry was the better option, particularly as he had somehow mysteriously overtaken us in the dark and was waiting with the minibus as we disembarked.
The following day brought clear blue skies and I was keen to capture the early morning light with my camera as Neil had recommended the views across to Mount Teide on Tenerife were spectacular from the sub-tropical gardens of our hotel. He wasn’t wrong. Set in a stunning location perched high on a cliff overlooking the town of San Sebastion, The Parador de la Gomera hotel reminded me of an aristocratic Spanish mansion, complete with Moorish courtyards with wicker chairs, shuttered windows and 16c style furniture.
Breakfast was taken amongst a cross section of walkers and hikers of all shapes and ages from the earnest map readers with walking poles to the very casual Sunday lunchtime “lets find a pretty pub” strollers like me.
Neil had arranged a gentle downhill walk for our first guided tour from the upper hamlet of Las Toscas through the Santiago ravine. A couple of friendly puppy dogs seemed keen to join our tour but the lure of a shaded farm porch proved irresistible. Perhaps they had seen it all before but few places in the world have the natural wealth and contrasting scenery as this little protected island.
One minute it felt like we were trekking on some prehistoric, sienna-red stone alien landscape then the next we were glimpsing charming little hamlets with allotments and livestock. We followed a goat herders track and ancients paths lined with palm groves to a sumptuous valley rich in vegetation and dominated by the immense presence of Roque Agando tower - a former volcanic plug formed when lava was funnelled to the top of the volcano over 2 million years ago.
We stopped for lunch in the pottery village of El Cercado where several workshops maintain the traditional art of ceramics handed down from generation to generation. Surprisingly, everything is made without the aid of a potter’s wheel and the resulting jugs, bowls and cups provide great presents to take back home. Alternatively, the cheery Maria and her husband Manolo at Bar Maria provide authentic Gomeran food specialities such as the best watercress soup I have ever tasted and a sweet syrupy drink called guarapo, which is made from the palm sap that Manolo collects from specially selected trees.
The following day we finished our whistle-stop tour of la Gomera with a circular walk around Vallehermoso (beautiful valley). A long ascent led us to the chapel of Santa Clara where we enjoyed breath-taking panoramic views over the north coast to La Palma. It felt like we were standing on top of the world although I can’t say the journey up was easy, but with Neil’s encouragement and support, everyone in our group made it without any mishaps. Halfway up, we even encountered a trio of maintenance workers whose job it was to rebuild the rocky steps that get damaged when heavy rainstorms wash away the paths. They seemed pleased to see us or perhaps the sight of our flushed red faces made them chuckle at these mad Englishmen out in the mid-day sun!
The whistle
It’s hard to imagine life without a mobile phone, let alone a landline, yet the good people of La Gomera came up with an ingenious method of communication by developing their own whistling language called Silbo Gomera. For centuries, this unique language evolved out of necessity due to the Island’s jagged terrain and deep ravines that made communication over long distances an arduous undertaking. With little in the way of transport, whistling was the only means of contact for the isolated farmers and shepherds to keep in touch with friends and neighbours. The price of a goat could be negotiated and important social events like an impending marriage could be passed around the island in under an hour by these human songbirds. It’s heartening to know that the whistling tradition is still thriving on La Gomera thanks to a the initiative of the local education department to teach it in schools as a way of making children aware of their local culture. I’m told there is even a difference in whistling accents between people from different parts of the island although my own attempts were more reminiscent of the dead parrot from a famous Monty Python comedy sketch.
Other activities
Marine lovers should take advantage of La Gomera’s growing reputation as one of the finest destinations in the world to view dolphins and whales in their natural habitat. Regular mammal watching excursions can be taken from La Gomera at Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey. Run by knowledgeable boating crews, the tours tend to leave early in the morning and with luck you should be able to spot a variety of species. Alternatively, try searching beneath the waves where the crystal clear waters make snorkelling and diving a popular pastime.
Safety in La Gomera
La Gomera is considered very safe for tourists. The locals are friendly and helpful whilst crime on the island is virtually unheard of. There are no snakes in La Gomera and it is mercifully mosquito free.
Fact Box
Chris travelled to The Canaries with Headwater on the “Walking on La Gomera” guided walking holiday. The price of this trip starts from £1249 per person including seven nights at the four-star Parador de La Gomera Hotel with all breakfasts and evening meals (including wine), five picnic lunches, a regional information booklet and a local map kit. With flights and transfers prices start from £1443 per person Gatwick to Tenerife South Reina Sofia with Thomson Airways.
Call Headwater Reservations Line 01606 720199 or book on line at http://www.headwater.com
The little Island of La Gomera is one of Spain’s Canary Islands located in the Atlantic Ocean next to the popular tourist destination of Tenerife. Blessed with a year round temperate climate, this tranquil island is only four hours away from Britain yet offers a warm tonic from the gloom of winter.
We flew direct to Tenerife where we where met by our guide, Neil Flynn who drove us to the port at Los Cristianos to catch the passenger hydrofoil ferry to San Sebastion. A beautiful sunset marked the start of our 45-minute journey although the slightly choppy ride on the hydrofoil reminded me more of a North Sea crossing and we were relieved to reach the harbour in La Gomera. I wandered if Neil’s choice of catching the slower vehicle ferry was the better option, particularly as he had somehow mysteriously overtaken us in the dark and was waiting with the minibus as we disembarked.
The following day brought clear blue skies and I was keen to capture the early morning light with my camera as Neil had recommended the views across to Mount Teide on Tenerife were spectacular from the sub-tropical gardens of our hotel. He wasn’t wrong. Set in a stunning location perched high on a cliff overlooking the town of San Sebastion, The Parador de la Gomera hotel reminded me of an aristocratic Spanish mansion, complete with Moorish courtyards with wicker chairs, shuttered windows and 16c style furniture.
Breakfast was taken amongst a cross section of walkers and hikers of all shapes and ages from the earnest map readers with walking poles to the very casual Sunday lunchtime “lets find a pretty pub” strollers like me.
Neil had arranged a gentle downhill walk for our first guided tour from the upper hamlet of Las Toscas through the Santiago ravine. A couple of friendly puppy dogs seemed keen to join our tour but the lure of a shaded farm porch proved irresistible. Perhaps they had seen it all before but few places in the world have the natural wealth and contrasting scenery as this little protected island.
One minute it felt like we were trekking on some prehistoric, sienna-red stone alien landscape then the next we were glimpsing charming little hamlets with allotments and livestock. We followed a goat herders track and ancients paths lined with palm groves to a sumptuous valley rich in vegetation and dominated by the immense presence of Roque Agando tower - a former volcanic plug formed when lava was funnelled to the top of the volcano over 2 million years ago.
We stopped for lunch in the pottery village of El Cercado where several workshops maintain the traditional art of ceramics handed down from generation to generation. Surprisingly, everything is made without the aid of a potter’s wheel and the resulting jugs, bowls and cups provide great presents to take back home. Alternatively, the cheery Maria and her husband Manolo at Bar Maria provide authentic Gomeran food specialities such as the best watercress soup I have ever tasted and a sweet syrupy drink called guarapo, which is made from the palm sap that Manolo collects from specially selected trees.
The following day we finished our whistle-stop tour of la Gomera with a circular walk around Vallehermoso (beautiful valley). A long ascent led us to the chapel of Santa Clara where we enjoyed breath-taking panoramic views over the north coast to La Palma. It felt like we were standing on top of the world although I can’t say the journey up was easy, but with Neil’s encouragement and support, everyone in our group made it without any mishaps. Halfway up, we even encountered a trio of maintenance workers whose job it was to rebuild the rocky steps that get damaged when heavy rainstorms wash away the paths. They seemed pleased to see us or perhaps the sight of our flushed red faces made them chuckle at these mad Englishmen out in the mid-day sun!
The whistle
It’s hard to imagine life without a mobile phone, let alone a landline, yet the good people of La Gomera came up with an ingenious method of communication by developing their own whistling language called Silbo Gomera. For centuries, this unique language evolved out of necessity due to the Island’s jagged terrain and deep ravines that made communication over long distances an arduous undertaking. With little in the way of transport, whistling was the only means of contact for the isolated farmers and shepherds to keep in touch with friends and neighbours. The price of a goat could be negotiated and important social events like an impending marriage could be passed around the island in under an hour by these human songbirds. It’s heartening to know that the whistling tradition is still thriving on La Gomera thanks to a the initiative of the local education department to teach it in schools as a way of making children aware of their local culture. I’m told there is even a difference in whistling accents between people from different parts of the island although my own attempts were more reminiscent of the dead parrot from a famous Monty Python comedy sketch.
Other activities
Marine lovers should take advantage of La Gomera’s growing reputation as one of the finest destinations in the world to view dolphins and whales in their natural habitat. Regular mammal watching excursions can be taken from La Gomera at Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey. Run by knowledgeable boating crews, the tours tend to leave early in the morning and with luck you should be able to spot a variety of species. Alternatively, try searching beneath the waves where the crystal clear waters make snorkelling and diving a popular pastime.
Safety in La Gomera
La Gomera is considered very safe for tourists. The locals are friendly and helpful whilst crime on the island is virtually unheard of. There are no snakes in La Gomera and it is mercifully mosquito free.
Fact Box
Chris travelled to The Canaries with Headwater on the “Walking on La Gomera” guided walking holiday. The price of this trip starts from £1249 per person including seven nights at the four-star Parador de La Gomera Hotel with all breakfasts and evening meals (including wine), five picnic lunches, a regional information booklet and a local map kit. With flights and transfers prices start from £1443 per person Gatwick to Tenerife South Reina Sofia with Thomson Airways.
Call Headwater Reservations Line 01606 720199 or book on line at http://www.headwater.com
