Jo Mueller's profile

Central Asia - Architecture

The Ancient Silk Road was my main interest for this trip. It connected China with Europe and went through countries of central Asia. Until today you can still see remnants of it, like this former small Quran school in Bukhara.

On my way, I'm trying to look left and right, off the beaten track. Usually I'll find small gems like the grave site for important religious and political figures (Sheikh Abu Bakhr), dating back several hundred years to ancient silk road times, close to Bukhara. The tomb for important religious and political figures has a special area reserved for the Sheikh himself, just down an alley.

The mausoleums of Shah-i-Zinda are just amazing from inside and outside. A walk around the complex offers some nice views especially in the evening. There's a contemporary Muslim cemetery right next to it as well. One of the most amazing moments during my trip was, when I stepped into one of the tombs and the wandering evening sun started throwing the pattern of the window onto the opposite side wall. I was watching the slow movement for quite a few minutes.

The town of Khiva has made great efforts over the past years, in preserving its old city center in the way it used to look back in ancient times. Roaming through the alleys, I swear I saw a caravan with wares around a corner. Everywhere I looked, the traditional towns of Uzbekistan had lots of small niches and back-alleys with hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

Doorways can lead somewhere magical. Or the doorway itself can be magical, such as this one in the centre of Samarkand. The detail and complexity of the tiles are just mind-blowing. They seemed to be scattered all over Samarkand's Ancient Silk Road buildings. I stumbled over one around every corner.

Samarkand is but only one of the places in Uzbekistan maintaining its Ancient Silk Road heritage, albeit probably the biggest. There are also many smaller towns which follow its lead, such as Shahrisabz just a bit south of Samarkand and always worth a day trip. The tomb is close to the Ak Saray Palace ruins.

Walking between well-kept remnants of the Ancient Silk Road in Uzbekistan is a special experience by itself already. But when I was strolling along the alleys in the evening, I became witness of spectacular plays of light and shadow. Early mornings or late evenings in Khiva just encapsulate the atmosphere of desert oases very well. I took my time to stroll around the alleys, escaping the heat of the day and crowds of tourists just before sundown, when the last warm rays of sunlight touch the brick walls.
Central Asia - Architecture
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Central Asia - Architecture

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