Kantha is a centuries-old tradition of stitching patchwork cloth from rags, which evolved from the thrift of village women of West Bengal. One of the oldest forms of embroidery originating from India, its origins can be traced back to the pre-Vedic age. “Kantha” refers to both the style of running stitch, as well as the finished cloth. Women in almost every household in rural villages would be kantha experts, and spend whatever quiet time they had available on stitching the pieces. 

Old cotton saris, lungis and dhotis, which had turned soft through wear, were used to make kanthas. The thread for the stitching was drawn out from the fabric itself. To make the kantha cloth, the fabric is first cut to shape and layered to achieve the desired size and thickness. Five to seven fabrics would be layered together. The layers are spread out on the ground and ironed. The artisan will first stitch some large, loose basting stitches around the edge of the fabric to hold the layers together. The finer kantha stitch is then made, starting in one corner and making short, parallel running lines. It could take months or even years to complete one kantha. Kantha gave freedom to the imaginations of the women; depicting folk beliefs and practices, religious ideas, themes and characters from mythology and epics and the social and personal lives of the artisans; their dreams, hopes and every day village life through the stitches. Motifs used in Kantha embroidery were human and animal figures, and floral patterns. Others like fishes, birds, kalka, mandala, mythological stories were also embroidered. The colours prevalent in this type of embroidery are those commonly found in daily life-yellow, red, green, black and blue. 

The stitches used in Kantha are running stitch, satin stitch and stem stitch. The outlines of the motifs are done using running stitch or stem stitch. Filling is done with running stitches in spiral, circular or conical patterns or satin stitch in coloured threads. 

Traditionally, kantha was a utilitarian item, made over a long period of time for use by the family. The majority of kantha was used as light coverlets during the mild Bengali winters and breezy monsoon nights. Another early use was for swaddling babies. Expectant mothers would spend the last months of their pregnancy stitching the cloth, in the belief that it would bring good fortune to their families and and protect the baby from diseases.