Dreaming is the outcome of a classroom project at NID, titled ‘Body as Space’. The project explores artistic and semiotic potential of human body to fashion multiple meanings in a space, through textile and apparel design. The collection is informed by trend research and analysis, forecasting lifestyle trends in color, textile and silhouette.
The trend board projects a radical vision for the post-modern man, who is free-spirited, individualistic and a true global citizen of a world sans boundaries. Using earthy colours and handcrafted patterns, modelled on the codes of athleisure, the collection transforms man’s body into a dynamic canvas. Regimented urban living will be transformed with changing ideas of local and global identities, masculinity and femininity, man and environment.
The textile collection is a synthesis of the elemental and abstract aesthetic of Aboriginal art of Australia, Japanese Shibori and block printing techniques of Ahmedabad, Gujarat.
The apparel collection is rooted in traditional Indian Kalidar kurtas and pyjamas – a composition of squares, rectangles and triangles on a three dimensional body. Their ethnic connotations are subverted to create contemporary, relaxed and non-conforming pieces for the deviant youth.
The paneled, Kalidar shirt, paired with harem pants become the trappings of the new age bohemia. The locally sourced black and white polka dotted, cotton fabric is tied and dyed – using a combination of Arashi shibori and clamp dyeing techniques.
A boxy and minimal silhouette adds functionality and versatility for the whimsical man. The pyjamas are clamp dyed twice; the second time is performed by shifting the position of the clamps slightly.
Translucency of Kota Doria awakens a softer, masculine sensuality. The Kalidar top uses a combination of ombre dyeing, clamp dyeing and wax resist dyeing, to achieve the graphic composition of the setting sun on a verdure landscape.
Inspired by the Aboriginal wisdom of judicious use of natural resources, the sleeveless, paneled top is an exploration of zero waste patternmaking. The only piece of fabric removed to create the neckline is later hand appliqued as the elemental dot on the back.
Left: Detail of side panel of the top. Right: Close up of the block printed print for pyjama shorts.
The athletic look is given an indigenous flair with ‘Bundi’ top and pyjama shorts. Native to Kachchh, Gujarat, Bundi is constructed by stitching the fabric into a tubular sack. The fabric is pre-dyed and block printed, which after stitching creates a dynamic artwork that warps around the body.
The shorts are clamp dyed and the red bands framing the clamp dyed pattern are over printed with Khadi. Garment pattern for the 'glocal' shorts is derived from traditional Indian patternmaking.
The paneled top is another exploration in zero waste patternmaking. Using the Kalidar template, it is composed entirely of rectangles and triangles. The sporty print is engineered into the pattern, on a locally sourced indigo blue, mud resist printed fabric.
For the neckline, two rectangles are split into four rectangles, which then layer over one another on the front and back of the garment.
Left: The Kalidar gusset is eliminated to make underarm air vents for the user, inspired from sports, as well as permit movement of the arms since the zero-waste pattern didn't include the gussets. Right: The pyjama shorts were over printed with Khadi.
The voluminous, wrap-around Kalidar shirt, paired with pyjama shorts, is endowed with haute street sensibilities. Inspired from urban, camouflage prints, the pre-sourced printed fabric is over printed with different blocks, thereby, resurrecting the Original warrior for the new age.
Course guide: Krishna Amin Patel
Apparel: Shakir bhai, Nasir bhai
Block Printing: Hitesh bhai
Photography: Aishwarya Grover
Model: Abhishek Mankotia
