The basis of research for
the collection “Ripples” comprises principles of deconstruction and the
Japanese fashion aesthetics. Notions such as provocative, radical, unwearable
and incomprehensible often emerge in connection with Japanese designers.
Although their work has been widely interpreted through the terminology of art
and architecture, their designs have been created for wearing – both physically
and psychically. Such an approach habitually engages in experimenting and often
deconstructs principles of classic pattern making. It decomposes traditional
construction methods and techniques while disregarding the shape of the body,
in order to reexamine forms, structure and design of clothes. Japanese
designers have demonstrated through a number of fashion collections that it is
possible to customize the garments considered unwearable and make them fully
The fashion in the West has
always emphasized the human body. The clothes making has been based on
producing three-dimensional shapes using darts and curves and garments have
usually followed and fitted the figure. I have been attracted into
research of Japanese design methods through certain characteristics that
significantly differ from the traditional western approach. The garments
created in Japanese fashion are not tight, shapes are unusual and exciting, the
use of textiles is interesting, designs are not strictly divided according to
gender, and in some cases garments are the real works of art. Japanese
techniques of clothes construction rarely rely on canonical procedures, exact
measures and rules of conventional construction and often allow possibilities
of experimenting with patterns, learning from mistakes and creating new forms.
The main approach in
designing the collection investigates asymmetry, an important aspect of
alternative clothes making, opposing the conventional aesthetics of symmetry,
especially the golden ratio, which has been regarded in the West as an ideal,
as elegance and luxury.
The collection uses elements
of humor as a design critique of mass production, contemporary mainstream
aesthetics, uniformity and dismal character of trends that lack surprise and
joy as well as questions the aggressive "sexy" tendency dictating anorexic
look, use of too tight and too small clothes, overuse of beauty products,
chemicals and implants.
To keep the collection
consistent with the initial idea, I used mostly simple affordable textiles from
natural fibers that fitted perfectly with the whole concept. Apart from being
considerably more comfortable than synthetic ones, natural textiles are also
biodegradable and recyclable.